Glue up

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA         I did a [very] light pein of the bottom tails just to force the sole up against the sides (you can kinda see the punch divots in the second photo). Then pre-heated to 500F (oven), applied clamps (see previous post) and flux, and silver brazed (using a #000 tip, barely hot enough) (photo left). Then a hot water soak and some wire busing to remove the flux (below).
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA          

Over to the mill to remove the majority of the waste, which uncovered bubbles in the silver so reheat and get rid of those (gotta improve my technique). The sides drooped in, straightened those up. Then lap, lap, lap on sand paper on my band saw table. Started out on adhesive backed  180 but that was taking forever so I switch to a 80 grit sander belt clamped to the table. Much better. Then switched to 120 by hand with a block, then 180. Stopped there for now (I’m pooped, that took a looooog time), probably won’t go past 220. The photo on the right shows the “glue line”, which I like, as it says “this is not a casting and took a lot of effort to make”. Plus, I just think it looks cool.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA         OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

I could have done things faster by milling closer (I left everything 0.004” proud by using a piece of paper and lowering the [turning] endmill until it caught the paper) and filing but I really didn’t want to make any deep scratches. As it is, the tail dropped quite a bit, which is going to take some effort to remove and flatten the sole. I don’t have a belt sander but as I can’t keep things flat and square with one, I wouldn’t use one (plus the heat if glue is involved). I’ve used a fly cutter before but it takes a long time to get the plan jigged square, mine leaves a rough surface finish and I blew up all the cutters the last time I used it (making chisels or on stainless or something silly).

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