A low waste, high labor dog strip

I didn’t have a nice thick piece of hard wood to carve into a dog strip and I wouldn’t want to turn big chunks of it into sawdust anyway, so I came up with another way to make the dog strip. Basically, I cut dog blocks, glued them to a backer board, then glued the resulting strip to the bench.
There is basically no setup required to make the blocks but making the strip sure takes a lot more time than making a router jig and routing a dog strip.

The dog holes are canted forward (towards the shuttle) at 2º so that, if the dogs don’t fit perfectly, they will be pushed back towards vertical. The notch is a stop so you can’t push the dog below the top of the bench. The blocks are 4/4 oak (a bit under 1”) x 3” (the thickness of my bench top). I used various widths based on guesses but all are less then half the vise travel. The dogs are 1” wide.

The backs of the blocks fit the face of the trailing dog and the front of blocks fit the rear of the leading dog. The first block has a square face (90º) with a notched back.

Once the rhomboid has been cut (chop saw), the notch for the top of the dog is routed out. This is a safe-ish cut since the bit is pushing back at the block, not pulling it into the stop block.




Squaring the faces that matter (ie the ones that face the dogs). Awkward since it the block isn’t a square. I can’t remember why I was doing this (because the cuts should have had a square edge) but it is a good pic of the block.

The glue up. The first block (far right) is the reference block for the entire strip. Get it right!
A 1” spacer is used to position the next block (I used a steel 123 block)
This photo shows the all the stages of the glue up (from right to left): glued, glue drying, spacers (on narrow blocks so they don’t smear squeeze out) and staged blocks (with dogs).
After the glue dries, the strip is glued to to its neighbor in the top lamination. I used clamps and temporary screws (for alignment and clamping, removed post glue up).

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