Others have pointed out that the loose fit of handle ferrule can cause the handle to split (see two posts ago) so I wanted to fix that. Here is the explode-O-gram of the parts in question (plus my fix, the ring on the threaded stud). Both the frame and handle are threaded for the stud.
The original parts fit really loose so the handle feels pretty wobbly.
Here you can see gap between the frame and ferrule that prevents the ferrule from doing its job of keeping the wood from absorbing bending force (“bend” the handle and the stud tries to make its bore bigger (acting as a wedge to split the handle), the ferrule should prevent this in two ways: by bearing directly on the frame and “offloading” bending force from the stud and acting as a “tourniquet” to keep the handle in one piece; apparently, it doesn’t. (This explanation sucks; see these photos).
(The gap is quite a bit larger than stock because I’ve turned the frame down to make it round and symmetrical about the stud)
A bushing was turned to fit between the frame and ferrule, it fills the gap quite nicely and handle feels much more solid. When assembled, the fit looks original. If/when the ferrule splits (the one on the crank handle already has, the brass wasn’t heat treated after shaping), I’ll make one that includes the bushing.
It would be nice if the wood compressed the bushing against the frame but I think the pin is doing more to hold the handle to the stud than the threads [in the handle] are; a bolt would probably work better than the stud and pins. Hey, what do you know? I just tried it and a 3/8” x 16 cap screw works just dandy. The thread is a really sloppy fit (because the stud is 1/32 over 3/8) but it works. Hmmmm ….