I bought a Stanley #7c off ebay a while back. It was pretty crusty, a borderline rat plane: rust, hang hole, pliers used on depth adjuster, sole worn from use, etc. The mouth was actually rounded over (a lot!) from shavings acting like sandpaper. In the process of rehab, I decided to make a new blade. I got some 1/8″ O1 and milled it to match the profile of the original iron. You can see how much thicker it is compared to a Keen Kutter iron (from a K7, which is a Stanley Bedrock). I had to open up the mouth a bit to fit the iron, but I had to do some filing anyway to get rid of that round over.
The cap iron screw is too short so I cut a step in the iron, which made the lateral adjuster unusably loose. So I made a little washer and just pressed it over the existing one. Heating treating an iron this big with a torch is a pain; it is really hard to keep it evenly hot, a little brick oven would be a good idea. As it was, I just kept the business end hot and quenched. As a result, I got some pretty serious warpage (if I remember correctly, I actually annealed it, flattened and re-tempered). Warpage isn’t a problem as long as the lever cap can press the iron flat against the frog (at the mouth), which isn’t that hard with a thin iron.
- @tigwelder one my planes with a cutting angle of 55. PS didn't realize you were Canadian - Konrad Sauer (#sauer_and_steiner) is amazing.What the parts to dovetailed plane look like. Usually, the pins are peined (to hold the sides on), I'd just as soon braze them. The tall spine is my addition, wood is usually used.