Metal work is pretty much done but the wood is taking its time; my neighbor asked if I wanted some old landscaping materials, I did and have been shoveling since.
The other problem with the wood is the horrible ergonomics of the classic mitre plane when used on a shooting board – it just kills the palm of your hand. So I’ve been messing with that.
- The brass looks beat up because it is. I bought a 1½’x4′ sheet at the scrap yard and it had not been treated kindly. Plus I like to pound on it with with a metal hammer. And it is too thin to make very much off.
- The steel side was in a fireplace I dismantled (didn’t see that pun coming), rather grungy, the bridge and sole are hot rolled (black) steel.
- The scribbles on the sole me how the lapping is going; it is about 0.001″ out where you can see the lines. Notice the brass, then try to find the identical steel tabs on the bottom.
- The sides are symmetrical, you see the joints on the brass side, but not on the steel side. The pins (steel on the brass side, bronze on the other, 3/32″) are mostly decorative as I went ahead and brazed everything (sorta like biscuits on an long grain to long grain joint). But I think they add a nice touch. The joints were lightly piened to close any gaps but you can see where I didn’t do such good job in a few spots (like the right of the steel side and the back of the brass side).
- The back shows the brass and steel join, a brazed butt joint (as is the front plate).
- The test wood was maple and apple. Very sharp and thin is the ticket. I swear it would take a hydraulic ram to to take a five+ thou shaving. Two thou, easy, four, you better have eaten your Wheaties.
- My HNT Gordon 60º woodie smoother is a superb shoot board plane, equal to this 34º one. And it has much nicer ergonomics. Ponder that.