Monthly Archives: October 2012

For the plane to work properly, the leading edge of the blade must be held firmly against the bed and the mouth open just enough to take a shaving the thickness you want (I like the mouth to be between … Continue reading →

This step is optional if a wedge works for you. However, I plan to use levers in all future planes, the functionality and ease of use is just so much better than a plain wedge. Adding a lever to the … Continue reading →

There are two pieces wood in the plane, the wedge and the bun. The ramp is all steel so we don’t have to worry about an infill or wood movement. Wood selection is not very critical, use something you like … Continue reading →

I have no mouth and I must plane. This is result I’m looking for: the barest opening we can get a file into (3/64″), the gap in front of the blade is basically zero (if need be, we’ll open it … Continue reading →

This step opens the back of the plane for the blade and wedge. Depending on how tall the ramp is, the back of the plane probably interferes with the blade/wedge and metal needs to be removed to open up the … Continue reading →

This part assembles the shell to the sole. Bronze nails are used to add visual interest (I put a lot of effort into the joinery! I want you to see it, otherwise I would have just welded the thing). Before … Continue reading →

The bridge, which traps the wedge, is made and brazed into place. First Add flourishes (a cupids bow in this case) to the bridge and polish. Brazing will tarnish that but it is a lot easier to clean up than to shape in … Continue reading →

This step cuts the joinery needed to attached the shell to the sole. In this step, I’ll cut the pins and tails and drill holes for the nails. I’m using two finger joints per side, bronze nails and brazing instead … Continue reading →