Put a lid on it

top pegged
pegs-and-holesI was more than a bit apprehensive about pegging the seat, the book’s suggestion of tight, tight, tight seemed bad, bad, bad for this not-very-wet-anymore wood. So I did lots of experiments with cut offs and got lots and lots of splits. Hmm, some changes are in order. It was cool that I could drive a square peg into a round hole but not very far before it stopped and/or the hole split. Just not enough wet enough to be that pliable. So I wound up making 3″ stepped round dowels (instead of square pegs), the step means the seat can’t lift off without backing out the peg (please don’t!). The seat holes also have a step in them. If I wasn’t lazy, I would have tapered both.
To lubricate the pegs, I used BLO figuring that it will swell the wood as well as get sticky. Put the BLO in the leg holes before putting the seat on or you will have BLO all over the seat top. I did a test with liquid hide glue and it was insta-stick. Time will tell. I did do a test where I used loose/sloppy dowels to test the fit up and could lift and move around the stool by the top – the angle prevented the seat from being able to pull the pegs out.

I had enormous problems getting the peg holes lined up and drilled, I drilled the pilot holes the wrong direction on three of them (doh!). I just have difficulty visualizing some things. It didn’t help that the 1/4″ peg has a 1/2″ square target (the seat peg goes down between the tennons and leg pegs). I put some blue tape on outer sides of the legs and drew the target center lines, one of which is offset for the angle and seat thickness, then, with the seat on, used a square and eyeball to transfer the lines. Start the pilot while looking at the angled side (that is where I screwed up) and use the angle template (see last post) as a guide. BTW, it is a total b!tch to center the seat and keep it there, maybe clamping/tacking battens on two sides would help. I also marked (more blue tape) one side of the seat and bottom to make sure I put the seat on in the same orientation every time.

Oh, and the angled aprons and rails are lower than the straight ones, by 1/4″. I didn’t even notice the difference in the lower rails until I measured.

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