For the shelves, I wanted a bit of pizzazz over square so I added cupids bows to the fronts. Yeah, I know I use bows everywhere, but I’m getting them wired and they are pretty adaptable. The shelves are two board glue ups.
The wood is riven/quartered Siberian Elm, a weed wood from my backyard, bland but looks nice with oil (amazing how dark it gets, almost as amazing as how much it soaks up). Dry, it works pretty nice with sharp tools but doesn’t take to sandpaper very well. About the same hardness/density as Poplar (or a touch softer) but much more stringy/fuzzy.
On the front/side undersides, I added a bevel, using a marking gauge to mark the depth, eyeballed the width and went to town with a #3 (Grozley #347 pitched @ 47½°), going across grain on the sides. I think I used the spoke shave to do some with-the-grain clean up. Don’t remember what I was doing at the other end of the bench, maybe curve touch up.
I figure that each shelf can hold up to four planes @ five pounds each for a max of twenty pounds per or 100# for the unit. I haden’t thought about that when I made the shelf supports but I’m pretty sure it isn’t an issue. The [shouldered] tennons are about 3/4″ x 1/4″, I later tried breaking another piece and it didn’t with about half body weight.
After gluing the shelf supports on, I sawed off the ends at an angle, did some rough hogging/shaping with a [different, deeper cut] #3 and finished up with the spoke shave to make a nice fair curve into the front bevel. All “flyball” (on the fly by eyeball), which means there is one weird one (“nope, that doesn’t work”) in the stack. (Ready for the spoke shave on the left, finished on right).
The LV spoke shave has been a frustrating learning experience, use it square to the wood and it clogs, clogs and clogs three more times. Use a heavy skew and it is lovely (hence the corkscrew shavings). Set the blade a bit heavier on the trailing side and you vary the depth cut on the fly, which can be handy.