Love Tapper

A small hammer I made just ’cause. I have a dead blow but it doesn’t get under the quill. I have a big brass thumper (no handle) but it will dent the cast iron. So a small mover for small spaces.

Hammer side

An interesting mix: the head is all machine work (with some filing because my mill isn’t square and more filing to bell the handle slot) and a handle is all hand work (some bandsaw work to cut the blank). Scrub plane to get rid of bulk, spoke shaves to shape and files to shape the tennon. To my shame, sand paper because I couldn’t get rid of tear out where the handle starts to taper, there are some small knots there. White oak (the hammer is sitting on a slab of), oil and shellac.

hammer headThe plastic tips are made from Nonamium plastic (kinda UHMW (cutting board) like) I got at the scrap yard for another project. Strange to machine – take big bites with sharp tools and it machines beautifully, try to take that light pass to get to size and you get a bunch of fuzz. The tip pictured is a reject – I wanted to get to size in one final big pass so I measured and used a dial indicator to set the difference but forgot to divide by two (to get the amount to take off the radius). They are light press fits into the hammer head.

The head is mild steel with a bit of whimsy applied at the lathe and mill. The important parts are the holes bored in the ends for the tips. They are the same size as the tips but with a 5 thou lip, the idea being the plastic has to compress going into hammer topthe head but will them expand once past the lip and not want to pop out. Don’t know if that’s what happens but they are a pain to remove.

The mortise has a taper to it (hand filed), smaller on the handle side. The hope was to size the tennon to the larger end, drive it in (the smaller end), the wood expands and self wedges. Maybe if I gave it some time but it would move so I made a bitty wedge from sheet metal and buried it in the tennon.

Here is what I use hammers for on the mill, seating parts so they are flat and tight to the bottom of the vise. If they aren’t, the cutter will be at an angle to the part (like tilting your router). Nicer vises have a mechanism that pulls the rear jaw down as vise is tightened which mostly alleviates this problem.

Advertisements
This entry was posted in Tools. Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s