(no, not the stunning tools of John Maki (images) or Paul Hamler) I have ten 5/16″ x 1/4″ red oak “struts/swizzle sticks” that I roughed out on the table saw and now need saw marks removed and width reduced to fit … Continue reading
I just might be biased, but I really like these little planes. They are nice for smoothing board edges (long and short grain), adding chamfers, etc and are much easier to hold/use/keep square on a narrow edge than, say, a #3.
For the plane to work properly, the leading edge of the blade must be held firmly against the bed and the mouth open just enough to take a shaving the thickness you want (I like the mouth to be between … Continue reading
This step is optional if a wedge works for you. However, I plan to use levers in all future planes, the functionality and ease of use is just so much better than a plain wedge. Adding a lever to the … Continue reading
There are two pieces wood in the plane, the wedge and the bun. The ramp is all steel so we don’t have to worry about an infill or wood movement. Wood selection is not very critical, use something you like … Continue reading
I have no mouth and I must plane. This is result I’m looking for: the barest opening we can get a file into (3/64″), the gap in front of the blade is basically zero (if need be, we’ll open it … Continue reading
This step opens the back of the plane for the blade and wedge. Depending on how tall the ramp is, the back of the plane probably interferes with the blade/wedge and metal needs to be removed to open up the … Continue reading